Cynthia Erivo defies gravity with her stellar performance as Elphaba the Wicked Witch of The West in the new movie Wicked. Directed by Jon M. Chu and based on the novel by Gregory Maguire, Wicked explores this coming-of-age story where Elphaba is ultimately an outcast but then goes on this spellbinding journey to grapple with her differences and find acceptance in the end. In the opening scene, the students of Shiz University gasp and gawk in fear when they see Cynthia with her green skin dressed in this all-black button-down pinafore dress. Not only is it her skin that stands out but also her well-imagined costumes created by Emmy and Tony award-winning designer Paul Tazewell. He worked with over 150 people who were milliners (hat makers), tailors, and dressmakers to bring several of Elphabas’ whimsical costumes to life.
Finding The Wizard
For her musical performance in The Wizard and I, Cynthia uses her powers to fly across the plains of Oz in her tiered ruffled black blouse and high-heeled lace-up boots. “Talking with Cynthia she wanted to have a heel on Elphabas boot and have that heel grow over time as she matured,” says Tazewell. The little black dress is a staple in the fashion community and Paul Tazewell does a brilliant job of taking that classic silhouette and telling Elphabas story using different textures in a black color palette. Cynthia also accessorizes this look with these interesting sliver circular spectacles that have a winding nose bridge and loop into each frame. This makes it feel unique and reminiscent of her power.
Tazewell turned to nature for inspiration when it came to designing several of Elphaba’s costumes for the film. The hems of her dress have this frayed look to them with this delicate black lace tulle being felted overtop. Plus, in her outfit at the Oz Dust Ball, she wears these swirling pleats on the top of her blouse netting.
“We re-interpreted the underside of mushrooms as these spiraling pleats on her top and felted pleats on the wool of her dress” explains Tazewell. Throughout the story arc, Elphaba displays this affinity for helping the animals of Oz which also deeply correlates with Cynthia Erivo’s own advocacy and connection to animals and the environment. This key theme is then literally woven into the fabric of her costume for the ball. Paired over the blouse is a waistcoat with Fiddlehead Ferns embroidered as a subtle nod to the foliage that grows in the forest. Many of these nature-inspired designs were brought to life from the collaboration process between Paul Tazewell and Elphaba’s main tailor, Jo Van Schuppen.
Cynthia Erivo Becomes The “Popular” Wicked Witch
In the film, a budding relationship begins to grow between Elphaba and Glinda The Good Witch of The North played charmingly by Ariana Grande. Unexpectedly becoming roommates at Shiz University these two learn what it means to embrace the differences in people. In Grande’s number Popular, Glinda teaches Elphaba how to soften some of her ways and try new things out of her comfort zone. In this scene, Cynthia wears a cream-colored shift nightgown with intricate front embroidery. She pairs this with a blueish-grey floor-length cover that has sweeping swirls along the hem, bust, and pockets.
This re-imagined look references 18th-century dressing and is reflective of the original bound book The Wonderful Wizard of Oz by Lyman Frank Baum.
Staring into the mirror Elphaba begins to see the beauty within herself and from that she gains the confidence and courage to go off and find the wizard in Emerald City. During her time there, she discovers her true powers and has to reverse the spell that’s been cast.
In the final scene of the movie, Cynthia Erivo gives her chilling Defying Gravity performance. For this act, Tazewell gives The Wicked Witch of The West an updated look cloaking her with a long black cape and a pointed hat that crooks at different angles. “When you see her whip that cape towards the end scene and fly off the balcony she’s in full control of her wardrobe” explains Paul.
Along with her ensemble, she wears a textured dress that Tazewell says was inspired by mushrooms, tree bark, and leaves.
Throughout this process, Paul Tazewell worked closely with Cynthia Erivo and Jon M. Chu to imagine Elphaba’s costume track. From gouache watercolor sketches and fabric swatches to full pattern mockups of each outfit so much thought and purpose is put behind telling her story. Wicked Part Two will be returning to theatres next year November 2025 with even more wickedly good fashion.
